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Holybelly 5

5 Rue Lucien Sampaix, 75010 Paris, France

Editor's Review

Holybelly used to live at 19 Rue Lucien Sampaix, and that venue is due to re-open in November 2017, but they had to move because there simply wasn't enough room for everyone who wanted to visit this superb café. And it's easy to see why, as Holybelly do everything well.

The coffee is from Koppi, unusually in Paris, where local roasts predominate. It's expertly handled too. Tea is not served loose, but Holybelly pack their own tea-bags and it's almost as good. The food is excellent, too, with a wider menu than many specialty coffee shops and incredible pancakes. The kitchen closes at four pm, though, so go early to avoid disappointment.

The space itself, a converted bar, has ample seating in elegant, elevated booths at the front, tables towards the rear, and a small, elevated quiet space that feels like being in a cool greenhouse. The floor is the original tiling, a lustrous green that sets off the wood of the rest of the space beautifully.

Holybelly is in an area that's well-blessed with cafés, but it's a destination venue in its own right.

Review: Alex Stewart